Oslo

20h00 July 30, 92

I'm on the ocean on the Princess Ragnhild, just south of Helsinki on my way to Kiel.

I have just eaten a huge dinner, buffet, it was incredible. After I get to Germany I don't know when I'll be able to eat again so I'm taking advantage of the food here! I think I'm still running on a deficit from Finland. There I only had bread every day but sometimes I had honey as well.

Yesterday after breakfast I only went 35 km before I was dead tired. I thought about getting on the bus right then. I decided I was being a wimp so I kept going and hoped it would go away. When I got to the ferry I met a family from Austria and they offered to drive me to the next town which was 30 km. I accepted gratefully. They ended up driving me 100 km to an airport. The next plane for Helsinki was leaving in an hour and they took MasterCard. I was on it.

Lofoten was pretty much a write off any ways. It was so cloudy and foggy that I couldn't see anything any ways. I also needed a couple days rest for my legs and didn't have the money to do that, at least not somewhere warm and dry.

I arrived in Helsinki at 9:30 pm and phoned all the youth hostels but they were all booked. A woman overheard me on the phone and said I could camp in her yard. She turned out to be really cool. She ended up inviting me into her house and she made me breakfast too!

The following morning I looked around Helsinki a bit and then got on the ferry. It was more like what I'd imagine a cruise ship to be. I even had a room all to myself. Two thumbs up for the food as well!! I finally got to eat reindeer.

Sorkjosen

19h50 July 23, 92

Today I hit 5,000 km!

I am finally warm and dry now. It was so wet again today and I froze.

It was really tough going today and was only making about 10 km/hr for most of the 135 km. The only highlight of the cycling was that after killing myself going steep uphill for a very long time - and I couldn't see anything it was so foggy - and then right in front of me opened up this huge mountain peak complete with snow that broke through the clouds. I am really high up! It was quite beautiful. Then back to freezing. So much for enjoying the downhill!

I ate dinner in a Chinese restaurant - they had a MasterCard sign in the window!! I think it cost almost $60 but it was so good to eat. I probably needed it too. I was dreading eating just bread again. Back to bread tomorrow but now I am full now. They let me bring my bike inside and I laid out my wet clothes to dry. They were so nice.

Oh and bad news, a broken spoke on that stupid wheel again. And it's on the side that I can't fix.


July 24, 92

My first boring day. I take the day off and am in my tent trying to stay warm and dry. I don't know why I don't have more energy! Especially after eating last night. But I'm hoping that my stuff will somehow dry in here and be good for tomorrow. I'm going to write some letters.


Skiboten
19h30 July 25, 92

This morning I backtracked about 10 km to Storslett to fix my spoke. That took till 13h30. I did it myself but the wheel is not true. The guy said the only way to make it better is to put it on a machine, but he didn't have one. It feels funny.

So I went about 100 km today. My legs feel great. I would like to do 140 km tomorrow to get to Andselv and phone mom. I am thinking of asking for more money as I am already tired of only eating bread today. I also want to stay in a hostel to get dry and clean up. I really smell. I would love a raincoat too!!

The fjords look nice today, you could even see the mountains. It has been too foggy to see anything at all really.



135 n.jpg
Andselv
21h30 July 26, 92

What a day.

It was sunny at least. I got things dried out! The morning was really beautiful with the fog and the mountains. I splurged today at the store. I bought 500g of chocolate with the bread and blew a few days budget. I decided that maybe the reason I'm so slow right now is because of my diet and that I need more energy. I saw a place along the road to stop for dinner that had umbrella tables and started eating my bread and chocolate. When the guys beside me left they left a box and a half of french fries. I grabbed them. I don't know what everyone else thought but I was so hungry. I really enjoyed those fries too! That was when I started questioning another 3 weeks of cycling. My money was pretty well gone. How far could I go on a loaf of bread a day any ways? My legs are already heavy and I'm probably anaemic too.

I stopped at a youth hostel and asked if they took MasterCard - no. I phoned mom and Aunty Fran from there. After talking with them I decided it would be a good idea to go back this time. That is ok as I was just kind of cycling on now any ways.

I asked the girl if I could take a shower and she ended up letting me stay there for the night for free! Wow, I feel incredible now, and so clean! I left the blanket at the hostel as well. It was too wet to do me any good now any ways and way too heavy.

So I decided to change my plans and cycle to the Lofoten Islands and then take transit back to Berlin from Bodø. I thought it would take 5 or 6 more days (about 500 km more). Mom said I have three to get there. Well, that's enough. I can always do another trip.


Gratangen
18h45 July 27, 92

Well, for the first time I give a big two thumbs up for our modern way of life. I am staying in a little ski chalet that takes MasterCard! It was freezing rain and hail all day and when I saw the sign I didn't care about the cost. I had an awesome dinner too (thank you MasterCard), lamb with lots of potatoes.

I am way too cold to consider this adventure fun anymore. I need proper gear and equipment. Without any raingear this is just stupid. I can barely use my hands to hold the knife and fork with.

There is another youth hostel 135 km away on Lofoten and then 275 km to the ferry. I could make that tomorrow or Narvik is only 50 km away. Humm, I'm so close. As I am warm and cozy I am thinking about just going to Narvik and getting on a train. You can't see anything in this weather anyways. I would like to see Lofoten but it may not be worth it. This is getting ridiculous.

It is so nice being in this cabin. I have it all to myself. Next vacation I will have some backup money. I'm watching the weather forecast waiting for them to show more Olympic coverage. The weather shows thunder and hail over the entire north with the high getting up to 11C in Narvic. Great, now the picture is showing snow. Gee, I hope that isn't for tomorrow.

My clothes are just dripping wet. It's great being so cozy and warm. My hair feels so nice too. My toes look like they are permanently waterlogged. Oh well, now just to get my hands moving.


9h00 July 28, 92

I'm watching the Olympics in my beautiful room and am not leaving until check out time. I just had breakfast here. There was so much food (buffet). I brought back as much as I dared to my room to eat later and I'm hoping it will be enough for the day.

I'll just relax here for a while and then head to Narvik. Oh well, I've seen lots any ways. I've gotten weak after staying in this nice place. That's what a warm bed, food and dry clothes will do to you!


Harstad
23h30 July 28, 92

Well, I made the turn to the islands, it just was too tempting. It was all downhill to the turnoff so I wasn't tired and was warm as it had stopped raining by the time I had to leave at 1pm. I managed to eat a big lunch as well before I left so I was feeling great! (Someone had left a burger and fries on a picnic table and I felt so embarrassed taking it, but I'm glad I did!!)

Alta

Alta
17h20 July 21, 92

And it's raining again.

There are neat tunnels to go through. One, the Skarvberg tunnel, was 3 km long and very wet and cold.

The altitudes range from 800 to 1200m, but it can seem long and steep up the hills. The fjords are what are frustrating, you can see the road so close and then you have to cycle far around to get back to that point again! There are ferries one can take but of course they cost money, but if I had the money I would!

It took a long time for me to go only 150 km. At first it was the wind, then rain and cold, and then the steep hills. I was hoping to get through Alta but I'm about 30m NE of there. My knee is starting up again and I still feel tired even with those days rest. Maybe I'll go down to 160 km per day, but 200s are definitely too long.

I saw an eagle's nest with a baby in it and the bald eagles. That was great. There were tons of reindeer too, this morning before it started raining.



The coast was very beautiful, even though I'd seen it before. I felt so great cycling this morning. This afternoon I think I was tired again. I have to be careful not to burn myself out, there's a long way to go still!

I bought a loaf of bread today for 15 NC. I'm ok if I only eat one a day. At least it is good bread here.

I am camping on a lake and I had to ask permission from the people who live near here. One guy came down to see how I was doing and wanted me to go up and meet them. It's funny, but I don't really feel like meeting people. I prefer to be alone.
20h40 July 21, 92

Well, I did go up and say hi since they kept coming down. They are Laplanders and I'm camped in there summer home. They were all very nice and I was very glad I did make the effort to meet them.

We sat in a tepee. They said it really was just for the tourists but that sometimes they still use them for reindeer herding. It was really warm inside because of the fire. We talked about world events and they knew much more about the Inuit than I did and we had some really interesting discussions. They also told me not to drink the water coming off the mountains. They said that Chernobyl had made it bad. Well, I'm not here for long and it sure is nice and cold to drink and I'd rather not have to buy water.



Talvic
17h20 July 22, 92

RAIN RAIN RAIN

I got nowhere today. Maybe about 70 to 80 km. At first it was slow going through the mountains and then I started cramping from the cold.

Lunch was great and I was so hungry I ate most of the bread. Then when I finished a Swedish couple offered to serve me lunch as well. At first I declined but then decided it would be nice to join them (it was dry inside their camper!). Too bad I had just ate!

The woman was asking if my mom knew how I was doing and she said that she sympathized with her. They were super impressed with my trip though. I will be too when I'm done I hope.

I've got a urine infection somehow and I leaked in my sleeping bag. I am also leaking in my pants too. I am afraid that they are forever smelling now and so am I. I cleaned it off the best I could with my sheet (which is also wet). Oh well. I just hope it stops raining!

I cycled 4,630 km to Nordkapp and my total mileage to date is 4,890 km.

Masgeroy

11:30am July 20, 92

I'm going to wait for my stuff to dry before I leave the hostel.

It is actually quite beautiful here. I love the seemingly barren land, just rock really. The soil is still frozen in places. There are reindeer here but other than that I only see birds. There are cormorants in the water and puffins too.

I've decided to steal a blanket from the hostel so I won't freeze at night any more. I think someone left it here, any ways, that's what the guys said. My hands are the only thing I am worried about now (except for getting caught stealing the blanket).



6:30pm July 20, 92

Well, I'm on my way back south. Today was a better day. I think I got upset yesterday with all the tourists and noise and goings-on. As soon as I got on my bike and rode out of town I felt much better again.

I decided to take the day off from cycling. I was hoping to take a ferry to Hammerfest but it costs 260NC. I hope to be able to take a ferry later and I will save some money for that one. It is on an island chain that is supposed to be very beautiful and the ferry costs 100 NC. I now have less than 20 NC to spend a day. I hope there will be somewhere I can use my MasterCard.

I rode a bit south once I got off the ferry to find a nice spot and carried my bike over a hill where it looked nice. It is very barren except for some small scrub. There are rabbits here too. I set up the tent at the side of a hill. It was great. I took off all my clothes and set up camp and just stayed like that for the rest of the day. Boy did I appreciate the sunshine! And it's warming up the tent really nicely. It is pretty here.





This is one of my favourite days that I have spent anywhere.

Nordkapp

July 19, 92

Well, I made it to Nordkapp today, all the way to 73 degrees north!

My high was at the point of getting on the ferry to go to the island of Masgeroy. To that point I had the best day, sunshine and everything was so beautiful. I truly felt I was on the top of the world. I felt so good.

The picture is taken from the touristic "North Cape", but the point shown is the true Nordkapp, called Knivskjelodden:


Going into Nordkapp wasn't so good though. The road was gravel and slow going. And then when I got there they charge everyone an entrance fee!!! $30 US!! I was really mad. So I left my bike at the gate and went in without paying. I am amazed at the amount of tourists here as well, hundreds for sure.

I went out to the point and took a picture (see above) of the furthest point north. Then they kicked me out. So no reindeer steak. I felt gypped.





I hitched a ride back to the village, Honniingsvåg, on the south part of the island. I splurged and stayed in a hostel and had a shower and washed some stuff out. Some Swiss guys shared their canned spaghetti with me. The had ridden their motorbikes up here.



So I'm clean and fed too. It's a nice feeling. My knee is feeling great too. My hands aren't so good though and they are really weak as well. I'm hoping for good weather as I head south!



Good night from way up north, 71 degrees!

Lakselv

9:10pm July 18, 92

Well, it took a long time, but I did it - 200 km today! And not an easy time.

I froze this morning - critically. All my stuff was wet. Damn this jacket that's supposed to be, but isn't waterproof!

I saw a beautiful fawn and her mom, snow white both, but my hands couldn't move so no picture. The cold isn't really the problem, but combined with the wet it is becoming a major problem. I am beginning to think that I may not be able to get by with what I have. I definitely have to do something about sleeping, this bag is useless.

It was so many steep hills this morning before the border. I thought my bike would break as I had to strain so hard (I decided I could walk the next one, but then they weren't so bad).

And then the sun came out and I got dried off!!!!!! By 4pm I was warm.

It's late now and I want to be on the road by 6:30. I'm letting myself sleep in as I only have 160 km left. It will be pretty tough though as I'm sore. But I can have steak tomorrow night!!

The mosquitoes are even worse. It's so nice inside the tent, but loading and unloading is fierce. It's at the point where the bites just hurt.

the Arctic Circle!

July 15, 92

So I made it!

I'm camped right on the Arctic Circle.

(It isn't really a good spot - but I have to say I've done it!)

It was only 160 km today but through the rain. A really yucky day. ...please don't rain tomorrow! And the mosquitoes!!! I had to keep my mouth shut and still breathed them in my nose. Repellent is useless. I've never set up my tent so fast, less than a minute I'm sure! I even have lots of bites on my bum from when I went to the bathroom!

I had no problem motivating myself today. I really wanted to camp right on the Arctic Circle. A good day.

But if it doesn't clear up tomorrow I may have to stay in a youth hostel to dry out. I don't even have enough money to buy food for the whole trip. I started really rationing today. Back to bread only, no honey. When I get to Nordkapp I am going to have reindeer steak and put it on my MasterCard. Maybe I'll even have 2!


Sodankylá
5:15 pm July 16, 92

It's been pouring rain all day. I've asked a man if I can sleep in his barn. unfortunately I'm surrounded by machinery instead of horses and hay but it's warm and dry! I thought I'd better stop and be assured of something - I was already soaking and cold - so only 150 km today.

I got my bicycle fixed in Sodankylá (again!), this time with shimano components, yea!

I have about 555 km to go to Nordkapp.

So I'm drying off and so is my stuff. Please Lord, let tomorrow be sunny! Even the reindeer aren't out in this weather!


Inari
7:30 pm July 17, 92

Well, I did just over 200 km today through the pouring rain and freezing cold. I can't believe how cold it is!! Like a bad January in Vancouver. My hands are totally numb all the time now. It poured all day. My feet are thawing out now - they're almost dry for the first time in 13 hours. My hands are swollen.

My high point today was when I saw two beautiful reindeer. One white and the other brown, and they were best friends. I got pictures, I hope they work. I could barely touch the button to take the shot.




So I just kept cycling all day, didn't dare stop or I'd get cold fast. At least my shirt stayed warm even though it was wet. If I stopped I knew that would be the end, especially with the wind.

My bike is still ok (I think!). Myself, well, my knee is bad and even my left one is a bit sore and I pulled my left gastroc a bit I think. I hope it's all fine tomorrow as I still would like to do another 200 km. That would mean I will be in Nordkapp on Sunday night, stay in a hostel and eat a really good meal (though there is certainly nothing wrong with this bread, especially when there is honey to go with it!). I will be in Norway for sure tomorrow any ways as it's 98 km to the border.

Tonight I am staying in an old abandoned shack just right outside Inari. I hope no one comes here tonight. I put the tent up inside to keep the mosquitoes out. I don't like staying in view of the road but the dry factor won over my fear. My sleeping bag is good to 7C, I think it may have reached that for a high today.

north from Lahti

4:30 pm July 11, 92

Well! I'm finally on my way!!

My money didn't come in yesterday but I can now pick it up at any KOP bank on Monday morning. I used the money the Israeli guy gave me to pay off my bill at the hostel. So I was free to start my trip!

By 5:30 pm yesterday I was on my way!! I went just past Lahti last night (about 115 km). It was the best. Freedom. An amazing high.

I've just had dinner and so far today I've cycled 130 km, There were some hills but not too bad. I hope to still go at least another 40 km tonight (another 2 hours at this pace).

I know I made the right choice for myself. Unfortunately my mother won't see it that way. She will be furious. I feel bad that I worry her so much.

But I am so excited. It's like having been freed from a cage. I really hate being in the city. I feel so confident. My knee is still bothering me but I'm sure that by tomorrow it will be fine.

Kuusamo
7:30 pm July 14, 92

I hate mosquitoes.

Well, I'm almost half way up. Sometimes it seems like it takes forever and sometimes it goes so fast. It's more like being outside of time really.

So, going back, Day 2, I ended up cycling about 170 km. I felt really good after that. Then the next day I cycled over 200kms. I was tired. But my tour was going great!

Well, Day 4 started out well. I did 90 km by noon, got money from the KOP bank, bought some food. Yea! (I had only had bread till now.) But $25 for just bread, cheese and honey! I only have $300 so I am going to have to be careful. Food is so expensive here! I sat down inside and ate while it rained. it broke and I hopped on my bike totally dreading the next 100 km that I had decided to do. The weather was bad and I was still tired from yesterday. So, after a major fight with myself I decided that this was a holiday and so I didn't have to kill myself and that I could do as I liked.

I decided what I liked was to set up my tent and read. It only took about an hour to decide that, and so I only ended up doing 120 km yesterday. As soon as the tent was up it just started pouring. I was glad.

Today my legs feel refreshed and I did a nice 165 km. I saw my first reindeer today too! They are bigger than I thought they would be. They ran in front of my bike for a while. I hope I see some more. This is perfect.




It was funny today. I felt like a recluse - I didn't talk with anyone and I didn't want anyone to bother me. I must look pretty wild too! I have been washing in gas stations and the day before yesterday I had a swim. But my shirt is really dirty and my hair is wild. It looks like there is a good place to stop and swim just north of Kuusamo. I hope the weather is good tomorrow - the water is so cold!

Helsinki

This was the sunset as I sailed on the ferry.

July 6, 92

Wow, it's nice here. It's beautiful too. And the people on the streets are happy. A different life.

At first I was really awed by the wealth - so many stores, so many goods, everyone is wearing such nice clothes. I'm truly awed and then I remember I come from a place like this! I've only been in Eastern Europe 1.5 months.

After talking with my uncle on Saturday (Alex had let me use the bank line, otherwise it is not possible) I had decided to go back to Germany. That was the practical thing to do. But today I have decided to cycle to Nordkapp. I need to go. Mom will freak.

But can I do it? I really should get front panniers, a cook stove, tent, new axel, tubes, new gears, brakes, gloves, cycling tights (with a leather seat), rain gear, better sleeping bag. I have already spent about $150 US on a new rear tire and rim. I really want to keep cycling. I'm driven now.

I know it is the mental challenge that I need to go. Of course there will be beautiful scenery, the midnight sun and reindeer as well. But it is the fact that I will be independent and self sufficient. I am going to do it. Something inside is really pushing me. I have to go.

I bought a tent ($500 on my MasterCard), did some bike repairs (another $100) and that pretty well finished any money. I still need a warm shirt. Maybe I can get a reindeer hide up there.

I have to wait here until I can get money from Canada. I am staying at a youth hostel and meeting lots of really neat people.
July 10, 98

Hopefully the last day here!!

I pray my money arrives today! If it doesn't then I am stuck here all weekend and wasting time and money. The youth hostel is letting me stay on credit now. One person gave me a banana for breakfast and another rice for dinner. A guy from New York is also in the same situation as I am and brought me to town and showed me where they dump the fruit from the market. It was good still!

This morning I met a man from Israel who lives on a kibbutz and is a goat herder. He is so neat. We had a great conversation and then when he left he put 100 Finnish Marks in my sleeping bag. Wow, am I ever lucky. he had offered me money and I had refused, but thinking more along the lines of 10 FM. Well, I will have to do the same whenever I see a traveler in need!!