17h20 July 21, 92

And it's raining again.

There are neat tunnels to go through. One, the Skarvberg tunnel, was 3 km long and very wet and cold.

The altitudes range from 800 to 1200m, but it can seem long and steep up the hills. The fjords are what are frustrating, you can see the road so close and then you have to cycle far around to get back to that point again! There are ferries one can take but of course they cost money, but if I had the money I would!

It took a long time for me to go only 150 km. At first it was the wind, then rain and cold, and then the steep hills. I was hoping to get through Alta but I'm about 30m NE of there. My knee is starting up again and I still feel tired even with those days rest. Maybe I'll go down to 160 km per day, but 200s are definitely too long.

I saw an eagle's nest with a baby in it and the bald eagles. That was great. There were tons of reindeer too, this morning before it started raining.

The coast was very beautiful, even though I'd seen it before. I felt so great cycling this morning. This afternoon I think I was tired again. I have to be careful not to burn myself out, there's a long way to go still!

I bought a loaf of bread today for 15 NC. I'm ok if I only eat one a day. At least it is good bread here.

I am camping on a lake and I had to ask permission from the people who live near here. One guy came down to see how I was doing and wanted me to go up and meet them. It's funny, but I don't really feel like meeting people. I prefer to be alone.
20h40 July 21, 92

Well, I did go up and say hi since they kept coming down. They are Laplanders and I'm camped in there summer home. They were all very nice and I was very glad I did make the effort to meet them.

We sat in a tepee. They said it really was just for the tourists but that sometimes they still use them for reindeer herding. It was really warm inside because of the fire. We talked about world events and they knew much more about the Inuit than I did and we had some really interesting discussions. They also told me not to drink the water coming off the mountains. They said that Chernobyl had made it bad. Well, I'm not here for long and it sure is nice and cold to drink and I'd rather not have to buy water.

17h20 July 22, 92


I got nowhere today. Maybe about 70 to 80 km. At first it was slow going through the mountains and then I started cramping from the cold.

Lunch was great and I was so hungry I ate most of the bread. Then when I finished a Swedish couple offered to serve me lunch as well. At first I declined but then decided it would be nice to join them (it was dry inside their camper!). Too bad I had just ate!

The woman was asking if my mom knew how I was doing and she said that she sympathized with her. They were super impressed with my trip though. I will be too when I'm done I hope.

I've got a urine infection somehow and I leaked in my sleeping bag. I am also leaking in my pants too. I am afraid that they are forever smelling now and so am I. I cleaned it off the best I could with my sheet (which is also wet). Oh well. I just hope it stops raining!

I cycled 4,630 km to Nordkapp and my total mileage to date is 4,890 km.

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